Japan Fashion Week 2005: Review

Japan Fashion Week 2005 has come to an end and as the tents are dismantled and the designers head back to their ateliers the time has come to reflect on what is hot and what is not for Spring/Summer 2006

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In a positive week for Japanese design both up and coming and established creators flaunted what Japan has to offer the fashion world. Truly inspired fusion of street fashion and haute-couture was the key look for JFW 2005 with the principal players being Yab-Yum, DRESSCAMP and Sunao Kawahara. What these labels excelled at was original, exciting and innovative fashion which set them apart from other more orthodox designers.

With a noticeable absence of foreign press and buyers the Japanese media were in abundance attempting to create a buzz about the collections. The press came to a consensus that Toshikazu Iwaya’s DRESSCAMP label are capable of great things and with the reception he received last week who would dare to doubt them.

Yab-Yum also caused a sensation with the Asahi Shinbun (major Japanese newspaper) drawing attention to the dark, romantic tones of Turkish, Indian and Chinese styles which fused reality and dreams.

Sunao Kawahara also impressed with his doll-like creations that came from Gallic and cinematic influences.

Kana Kobayashi from the Young Creators Collection made a name for herself with a truly unique show of peerless insight and technique. She is certainly a name to watch out for in the future.

The hitlist for 2006 includes “Summer Black” neo gothic looks with punky accessories such as chain necklaces. Yab-Yum and Sunao Kawahara displayed summer essentials such as flowing black coats, tied black cardigans and waistcoats and t-shirts with ghoulish designs.

Floral prints and petal designs dominated most of the collections from Annodomini to ROUROU. Cute summery skirts and blouses along with floral accessories created an elegant and feminine feel for next year.

There was also an abundance of brown and beige but the designers in the know understated these colours and pushed for blacks and floral print as the way forward for next Spring and Summer.

In an industry and government backed event JFW 2005 impressed with an array of designers and creators proving that they can top their European and American counterparts.

The only criticism of the event is that it should be a more condensed schedule over one week and should immediately follow the Paris collections in order to lure more foreign journalists and buyers. If this can be done then the Tokyo collections can become as significant and relevant as London, Milan, New York and Paris.

Paul McInnes About the Author

Paul McInnes is a fashion and arts journalist based in Tokyo. He is the menswear fashion editor of The Japan Times, the Tokyo editor of Sportswear International, contributes to High Fashion, Dazed Digital, and JC Report.

Recent articles by Paul McInnes:

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Mar 7, 2006 (6563 days ago)

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