The press release promised a lot: “Travelling back to the 60s for inspiration, we have rediscovered Hong Kong’s legendary style, pristine palette, a softer silhouette and plenty of romance.”

The concept sounded great. Then the lights went down and the limber Chinese circus performers came on and expertly pranced and pirouetted. My cultural taste buds wetted, the crowd felt ready for an exciting and culturally sophisticated show.

But as the corny manderin-collared satin gowned ladies stepped along the catwalk, I was left deeply disappointed.

It was everything you don’t want to say about a city you obviously love and admire – gaudy, unsensual and cheap-looking. It must not have been Ryunosuke Aoyagi’s intention, but he achieved it.

Having visited Hong Kong serveral times, the collection made me feel very sad that this wonderful city and people, at a crucial time in its development–the 60s–were depicted in such a way.

I felt the collection was Mangaesc in the way it used color and over-caricatured the silhouette. A use of traditional Chinese textiles and an investigation into cut and subtle detail would have set this concept alight!

Show: March 14, 2007 20:30