The Dark Days of Taishi Nobukuni

You think you have seen everything until you see a fashion show performed in the dark. Taishi Nobukuni’s collection for Spring/Summer 2007 was a truly puzzling event. An almost pitch black arena with blackened models wearing very dark colours made for extremely difficult viewing.

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Nobukuni, the creative force behind Japanese retail giants Takeo Kikuchi, usually goes against the grain, but this time left a fashion week audience dumbstruck — for the wrong reasons.

With a dark and heavy military collection the show resembled Autumn/Winter rather than Spring/Summer. Tight jackets worn with army pants created nice shapes but to be honest I was getting tired of military chic years ago. Wide trousers, waistcoats and bomber jackets alongside double-breasted leather jackets looked tough but bland.

The womens wear was almost invisible — I could only make out high waists and light trenchcoats. If the theme was punishment Nobukuni pulled it off. However, if you want your designs to be seen and worn, it makes sense to let your prospective customers see your collection. This was a disappointing and resounding flop.

Paul McInnes About the Author

Paul McInnes is a fashion and arts journalist based in Tokyo. He is the menswear fashion editor of The Japan Times, the Tokyo editor of Sportswear International, contributes to High Fashion, Dazed Digital, and JC Report.

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