Tamae Hirokawa’s Somarta label debuted at the Tokyo collections today. In a visually dazzling show she obviously wanted to make her debut with a bang. Layers and textures and intricate styling were on display and her time spent with the Issey Miyake team has clearly paid off.

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There was nothing wrong with the artistry and the new wave gothic/secret garden theme was well put together. It was reminiscent of Ohya but it was when the fencing style masks appeared that alarm bells started to ring. I would have been really overcome by these beautifully woven masks had I not seen them before in Jun Takahashi’s Undercover collection for Autumn/Winter.

In a derivative show Hirokawa disappointed. If she can use her obvious talents to create her own unique style and ethos Tokyo could have another star on its scene.

Paul McInnes About the Author

Paul McInnes is a fashion and arts journalist based in Tokyo. He is the menswear fashion editor of The Japan Times, the Tokyo editor of Sportswear International, contributes to High Fashion, Dazed Digital, and JC Report.

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