Lamp-shade shaped ruffled skirts, tiered skirts and Breton-striped tops prevailed in this step-back-in-time catwalk show.

Models wore court wigs and resembled Military dolls. Green pleated skirts and military green cardigans stole the first half of the show while the second half saw a slight change of direction with Goth like skull t-shirts and black silk pants, black jump-suits and what looked like an integrated denim pouch/skirt ensemble paired with a simple black tunic.

This was a show of two halves and it sometimes looked like a production of Dangerous Liaisons set on a council estate. Luckily for Kuwahara this eclectic mix worked, and the fusion of history and play on shapes was a real breath of fresh air for the attendant audience who eagerly awaited this show.

This stylized, beautifully crafted collection left the Tokyo audience suitably impressed and this Issey Miyake proté showed that he can sculpt architectural fashion as good as anyone. This was a joy to behold.