An enormous crowd assembled outside Tokyo’s Meiji Jingu Memorial Picture Gallery and waited for more than one hour for a chance to see one of Japan’s best new labels.

Iwaya doesn’t do anything by halves and this extravagant rollercoaster of a show didn’t disappoint. He seems obsessed with pimps and hooker images and the menswear was a mix of cowboys, pimps and Pirates of the Caribbean. Animal print shirts, gilets, bobble hats, psychedelic fluffy blousons and sheepskin coats opened for the men. Top hat and Tails and a sublime orange paisley pattern robe were the menswear highlights and the attention to detail and the artistry was nothing short of astonishing.

The womenswear was all about over the top glamour. Painted drape dresses, silk black shorts, fur and floral headdresses impressed early on. Crazy psychedelic dresses, double breasted fitted gray jackets and camp see through black blouses contrasted well with purple leather coats, abstract expressionist skirts and elaborate dresses. Puffed shoulders, impressive patterning and floral dresses with long trains had a sense of slutty royalty about them and had the crowds gagging for more.

Iwaya showed that he has the talent to match the hype and this extravaganza was a fitting end to a much improved Tokyo Collections. The final evening had a wonderful audience, party atmosphere and a feeling that Japan Fashion Week has the potential to become a crucial event on the fashion calendar.

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